Jamavar
I keep having customers coming to my shop and asking for a pure Jama shawl and we roll our heads on where we begin. Sometimes a customer doesn’t have time and we wish we could have informed them more.
Sometimes the customer tells their budget and we show a wool piece and they think we are duping them by showing something different. Oh how much have some fly by night guys ruined it for us!
Jama an abbreviation of Jamavar/ Jamawar or even Jaamavar. I am not a linguist so I do not know how the exact way to write the urdu word in English, but the internet has made variations of the spelling and hence my reason for telling you.
The word essentially is in two parts – Jama and Var/ War. The urdu word jama means a dress, robe, suit or even a nightdress and var is body or chest. By the end of this section the translation may make more sense!
So a Jama essentially is not linked to the fabric of pashmina or wool. It refers to the pattern or design of the shawl.
An “all over” design of a shawl where there is dense embroidery, showing very little space of the body color is what we call a Jamavar. So a Jama could be a wool jama or a pashmina jama. Depending on the type of embroidery we could get a sozni jama, ari jama or a paper mache jama.
Notice how the merigold base is almost completely covered? The paisley embroidery is so dense and detailed that it covers almost the entire body of the shawl. It creates a rich, layered look that feels both elegant and handcrafted — the kind of work you can spot from a distance.
Well that’s a Jama! So hopefully now things adds up to the evolution of the two words Jama and Var coming together to form Jamavar.
Jaaldar
Now that you have understood Jama, Jaal should be easy to understand. Its again “all over” designs on the body of the shawl but very “open-ended”! Jaals are not as dense as a Jama, more like the opposite!
This wrap features delicate hand-beaded jaal embroidery, spaced just enough to let the rich picante red base stand out. It’s a vibrant, elegant piece with a touch of artisanal detail.
Please don’t think JAMA is superior to jaal. Both have their own charms and appropriate times for wearing!
Dordaar
By now you would have understood what are we essentially talking about. All these names are used to identify and refer to a shawl based on its design and how they are placed on the body of a shawl. Shawl making is after all an art and the empty frame of a shawl the artisan’s muse.
Dordaar shawls are shawls where we have a plain solid colored body, with detailed embroidery happening on four borders of the shawl. There could also be a motif or buti on the corners of a dordaar shawl. The width of the border also changes from piece to piece.
Some dordaars may have a thin border and some may have a thicker border. But all would come under dordaars!
Now, remember, shawl making is an art and we have even subsets and types of dordaars. Below should be helpful –
- Topdor – The embroidery border is 3.5” or about 9 cms in height.
- Neemdor – The embroidery border is 2” or about 5 cms in height.
- Chaar Hashia – The embroidery border is 0.75” or about 1.8 cms in height.
- Baledaar/ Baildar – The embroidery border is 0.5” or about 1.2 cms in height.
At the same time, it is important to note that weavers, embroidery, and artisans along with myself do keep experimenting with designs and sizes. You can come across new sizes and patterns which is completely fine! A piece should be to your liking and beautiful to you, that is what matters!
Featured – Chinar Dor Kani Wool Shawl – Toosh Offwhite
This Kani wool shawl features a graceful chinar-leaf pattern woven across a soft toosh off-white base. The traditional Kani weaving gives the design a fine, textured look, while the warm wool keeps it lightweight and comfortable. It’s an elegant everyday piece with a touch of Kashmiri heritage.
Palledaar
Palla has now become more or less a Hindi word. If you are a Hindi speaker you would be able to understand this but it is not, palla actually means many things – edge, border, and even panels – like cloth panels.
Palledaar shawls are one where the embroidery is limited to only the two short sides of the shawl. In fact palledaar shawls are the brother of dordaar shawls.
In dordaars the embroidery is running on all four borders but in palledaars the embroidery is just on two sides.
Featured – Palledaar Ari Hand Embroidery Stole – Citrus Black
The palledaar design is neatly spread out, letting the black fabric show through while adding a touch of Kashmiri detail. It’s soft, lightweight, and perfect for adding a stylish accent to any outfit.
Buti/ Buteh/ Booteh/ Buty
A motif or design on a shawl is called a buti. Yes, it is pronounced as booty but remember this is an Urdu word. The motif is not restricted to anything and can be paisley, flower, etc.
The buti can be just on the corners or repeated all over. Paisley and floral butis.
Feature – Posh Buti All Over Ari Shawl – Black
This black shawl is covered with small floral Ari embroidery, creating a neat all-over pattern. The stitches add light texture while still letting the black base stand out. Soft, warm, and elegant, it’s a versatile piece you can wear for both everyday outings and special occasions.
